Monday, 18 March 2013

FOR THE CHICKEN-LIVERED...

A paste made from baked chicken liver
Is a delicacy, but gives me a shiver
So I whipped up instead
A more palatable spread
Made of lentils, would you care for a sliver?


Lentil Pȃté (made from Kim O'Donnel's recipe in The Meat Lover's Meatless Celebrations)

There was a time long ago, I confess, when I would indulge in the odd bit of pȃté at a family gathering.  Just as long as I didn't stop to consider what it actually was that I was eating (chicken liver I think), it was thoroughly caked in ground peppercorns, and I studiously avoided the creepy jelly bits.   Never did I go so far as to sample foie gras, as the deliberate fattening of a bird for such purposes disgusted me even then, long before ditching meat from my diet.  But in those rare moments, I could appreciate the rich peppered flavour and the buttery texture melting on my tongue.  So despite my dietary choices, there is something about that look of pure sensual enjoyment on people's faces when they first dig in to a little terrine of pȃté that now makes me a little envious.  

But that green-eyed monster isn't enough to get me back into eating real pȃté, so I wondered if it was possible to create a vegetarian one that was just as rich and satisfying.  The only vegetarian pȃté that I ever sampled tasted dreadful and odd, with too many incongruent flavours fighting for dominance and the tin was promptly chucked in the bin.  I started my search with little hope.  

As luck would have it, I soon stumbled across a little recipe for a lentil pȃté in one of the many cookbooks adorning my shelves. (I seem to have a strong compulsion to buy cookbooks and save recipes, even when I don't actually cook from them).  It is in a really promising book by Kim O'Donnel:  The Meat Lover's Meatless Celebration. I say 'promising', not as a reflection on her capabilities, but of the likelihood of me making more of the delicious-sounding vegetarian feasts within!  Lentils often disappoint me however, and I had my concerns I would end up with a dirty, earthy paste, not the decadence I was seeking.

Lacking the required cognac or bourbon for this recipe, I instead polished off the remains of Chef's single malt whisky (in the pȃté I swear!) but mostly stuck to the plan. Okay, there were a few other deviations following some tips from Chef: the addition of a tablespoon of cream, pressing the final mixture through a seive for an extra smooth blend (says something about my food processor!), and sprinkling the top with a coarse peppery coating for my own benefit.  Not only was it easy to make but I have to say the result was a resounding success! I witnessed Chef close his eyes for just that brief moment of quiet appreciation (before I unveiled the empty whisky bottle).  He was pleasantly surprised at how decadent it was, and how similar to the real deal.  Obviously I didn't see the look on my own face when I had the first bite but the fact I nearly devoured half the bowl might be testament enough. 

For the Vegetarian Butcher.Co we might just bake it in a pie crust for a lentil pȃté en croûte you could impress any guests with.

So chickens, be not afraid, you can keep your livers, I can over-indulge myself just fine without them! 

Friday, 8 March 2013

CORONATION CUISINE...

A chicken dish made for the queen
For her coronation banquet I mean
A spicy mix to be fed
In salads or bread
This one's made with the garbanzo bean.

Coronation Chick Peas and Potato Salad  (from Simon Rimmer's recipe in The Accidental Vegetarian)


I would have thought it unlikely that a dish most often made to use up leftover cooked chicken was originally designed for Queen Elizabeth's coronation banquet in 1953, but apparently Coronation Chicken had its debut on that menu.  It seems that chicken, curry and mayonnaise must be a bit of a royal favourite.  'Jubilee Chicken' was created for the silver jubilee of George V in 1935, another version for Elizabeth II's Golden Jubilee in 2002, and again a 'Diamond Jubilee Chicken' made by Heston Blumenthal for the Royal Garden Party in 2012.  



Fitting then with the Queen's diamond jubilee celebrations still reasonably fresh in our memories, I wanted a recipe to try to satisfy my fondness for this dish, vegetarian style.  This time, I came across something in one of my cookbooks, The Accidental Vegetarian by Simon Rimmer, 'Coronation Chick Peas and Potato Salad'.  It is a nicely simple recipe but with the use of Chef's freshly made mayonnaise (I had every intention of buying a jar), and a lovely homemade vinaigrette, it was particularly flavourful.  I read online that the combination of fruit, curry and mayonnaise in jubilee or coronation chicken was intended to represent the colonies of the British Empire.  Taking this sovereign symbolism one tasty step further, Chef toasted slices of freshly baked granary bread embedded with ruby-like cranberries  and drizzled with a touch of olive oil which balanced the meal with a lovely sweet finish. 


So, was it a meal fit for royalty? Although thoroughly enjoyable and I would make this recipe again, I'm afraid this one came up a bit short for our purposes.  Coronation chicken is quite versatile but most often served as a sandwich or jacket potato filling.  This one is more of a rich potato salad on its own, so just doesn't fit the bill.  The use of chick peas however might be the answer to make this a 'meaty' dish so I'm challenging Chef to come up with something more suited for The Vegetarian Butcher.Co.

In the meantime, I felt I must share with you how he made his own mayo!

HOMEMADE MAYONNAISE

Note when adding the oil ALWAYS drizzle it in slowly as you are whisking hard to avoid spitting the mixture.


combine:


300mL sunflower oil
200mL rice bran oil

1 egg yolk
1 tsp dijon mustard
3 tbsp white wine vinegar
1 tsp salt
2 tbsp water


Combine the oils together.  In a separate mixing bowl whisk the egg yolk and mustard rapidly for 30 seconds.  Using a third of the oil, slowly drizzle 1 tsp and whisk until absorbed into the mixture (about 10 sec), repeating the process 4 more times (using a total of 5 tsp) then double the amount of oil added each time until a third of the oil has been used.  With the mixture really thick, add 1 tbsp of white wine vinegar and all of the salt, continuing to whisk.  Repeat 2 more times using a third of oil, then adding a tbsp of white wine vinegar.  To whiten the mayo whisk in the water or leave it out for a more yellow colour.